VOIR COUTURE

CHOOSING READY-TO-WEAR GARMENTS --

LET THE THE BUYER BEWARE

or

A REALISTIC LOOK AT THE MYTHS IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY

With sales of summer clothing now in full progress, here are a few tips to help you wisely invest your clothing dollars.

The most important fact to remember when shopping for ready to wear is that fashion designers do not design for you; they design garments to sell and make a profit. Not only are colors you see this "season" not necessarily good for you, they were chosen three years ago! How else could the manufacturers have fabric ready for this "season's" hot colors or nature's colors. We are told what is in and what is out because it is a business, not because a design is "made for you".

It is not important where you buy your garments. What is important is to invest in a quality garment, not just a label. Often the same "piece workers" (seamstresses) or "line" will manufacture, for example, Anne Klein and a less expensive line. There is sometimes a difference in quality of fabric or width of hem, but the construction is usually the same. "Sweat shops" are individual contractors, not usually employed by the designer.

The authentic designer clothing, costing in the thousands, is most often made in the designer's work room. Do not, however, be fooled in the number of people purchasing actual designer clothing. Many of these garments are modeled in the show and loaned, given, or sold at a discount so the designer's work can be seen worn by famous people. Rarely do the important people pay full price.

When searching for quality ready-to-wear, turn the garment inside out. How are the seams finished? Is the hem at least two inches? Is the seam allowance skimpy or at least three-quarters of an inch? How is the lining finished? Are there loose threads, or even worse, is the hem blind stitched with nylon (like fish line) thread? Are all the seams smooth or is there a pucker that the salesperson says will press out? (If it would press out, it wouldn't be there!)

If the garment is plaid or print, is it a woven plaid or print? That is, is the fabric almost the same on the inside as the outside? Do the plaids match? What are the closures -- buttons, zippers, snaps? Metal zippers can damage fabric in cleaning (and your undergarments too). Metal buttons often cut thread and thus need to be re-sewn too often.

All of these features are some of the ways costs are cut in manufacturing.

Fabric content can often be a mystery to the consumer. Virgin wool is simply wool that has not been used before in another garment, i.e., it has not been recycled. Camel's hair can be many quality grades from lustrous soft underhair of the camel to cheaper grades of cow hair. Viyella is a lightweight twill fabric which is 50% wool and 50% cotton.

Ramie is an inexpensive, strong plant fiber which is spun or woven into a fabric similar to silk or linen. Flax is the soft fiber of the flax plant which is used to make linen.

Acetate is a man-made fiber with low tensile strength, i.e., it will split and tear easily. Rayon is a man-made fiber of cellulose (wood pulp). Triacetate is cellulose triacetate, similar to acetate but with higher heat resistance and easier to care for. Viscose is a type of rayon.

For silk fibers, see the enclosed brochure.

Polyester is a synthetic fiber with wrinkle-resistant properties and is often used in blends. Usually, 100% polyester is hot in the summer and cold in the winter. It may pill but it is very sturdy.

Blends will usually react according to the percentage content while retaining some of the properties of each fiber. There really is no mystery, only various names and terms for a few natural and manufactured fabrics. If you have any questions on fabrics and their properties, I would be happy to answer them.

The final point to consider when purchasing ready-to-wear is the store policy. Do they stand behind all sales? How long have they been in business? Just remember, they are also in business to make money.

Avoiding mistakes and making wise clothing investments ultimately depends on the consumer. If the garment is well made of quality fabrics; has style, color and fit for you, the individual; is purchased from a reputable store; and is fairly priced, it is a "good buy". If the item is on sale and one of the above points that doesn't work for you, think again. Items go on sale not for your convenience but to clear out old merchandise for the new merchandise waiting in the back room.

For further reading on this subject, I suggest The Fashion Conspiracy by Nicholas Coleridge.)

Voir Couture is the recognition and confirmation of each Judith, Couturiere client. You are confident and distinctive, value tradition, and demand quality and individuality. Voir celebrates your uniqueness!