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TheSloperLady
By Lauraline Grosenick,
CADTERNS Custom Clothing Inc.
http://www.cadterns.com
How can you use your fitted sloper to fit other patterns?
The first thing that you need to do is to identify basic reference points
and lines on your figure, your fitted sloper and your pattern. Some digital
slopers have these lines and points clearly marked. On unmarked slopers and
styled patterns, you can draw these points and lines by hand.
Bustline, Waistline and Hipline are the most useful horizontal reference
lines. They should be parallel to each other on the pattern and parallel to
the floor when wearing the finished garment. Distances between these
horizontal lines on the sloper and pattern should be consistent with the
same locations on your figure.
Centre Front and Centre Back are useful vertical references. Vertical
references should also be parallel in the pattern. Vertical reference lines
of the finished garment should be parallel to the wall and should divide the
figure naturally.
Some reference points to mark along the reference lines include bust point,
hip point and back neck point. Bust and hip points occur at the apex
(outermost point) of a figure curve. To find your back neck point, drop your
head forward and note the prominent bone.
Flat fabric is able to fit the curves of the figure by way of darts that
start and end at a seamline and point toward a dart point. All darts in a
sloper are fitting darts. A pattern may include both fitting and decorative
darts. Assume that darts in this discussion are specifically fitting darts.
Darts on the pattern may be different in size, location and even quantity
from your sloper, but you must be able to account for all fitting darts.
What if your sloper has two darts and the pattern has only one? How many
darts are best for your figure and how big should they be? What if the
pattern has no darts at all? Can you move, add or leave out pattern darts to
match your sloper?
You can REARRANGE darts by rotating, combining or dividing them
You can CONVERT darts into tucks, gathers, seamlines, flare or fullness but
==>> THOU SHALL NOT ELIMINATE NOR IGNORE FITTING DARTS <<==
Remember
If it's worth sewing, it's worth sewing well;
and if it's worth sewing well, it's worth FITTING FIRST!
'Til next time then,
TSL (TheSloperLady)
Definitions:
Glossary of Terms
Articles:
Sloper Talk - Preamble
Slopers 101: "What is a sloper?"
Slopers 102: "Why would I want one?"
"Where can I get a sloper that will fit me?"
"How many measurements does it take to get a perfect sloper?"
"How CAN you tell when you’re done?"
"How can you use your fitted sloper to fit other patterns?"
"How can we make new patterns from our fitted slopers?"
Sloper Home
Biography
Lauraline Grosenick holds a Bachelor of Education from the University of
Alberta. She has taught secondary high school and adult education sewing and
patternmaking for more than 20 years in both private and classroom settings.
Teaching was one constant but not her only professional activity. While
free-lancing in theatre costuming, Lauraline designed and produced Growin'
Ups(TM) - a line of children's wear, using cottage industry manufacturing
strategy. As a pioneer of CAD for clothing, Lauraline initiated and
continues in the development and application of CADTERNS(R) Custom
Patternmaking Program - computer software for personal patternmaking. She
has published several small Computer Assisted Patternmaking booklets to
accompany custom patternmaking software.
CADTERNS is a personal patternmaking program for IBM and compatible
computers. It enables anyone to draft personal Ready-to-Style(R) slopers
(basic patterns) for the purpose of modifying existing patterns to fit or
styling new ones. CADTERNS Slopers can be made for any female figure ranging
from 4'1" to 6'8" in height and from 27" to 68" at bust or hip. Slopers for
skirt, pant, bodice, blouse and sheath can be calculated in mere seconds!
Every pattern made from a personal sloper is a pre-fitted personal pattern.
Do check out CADTERNS home page at http://www.cadterns.com. At this Website
you will find a wealth of information about personal slopers including
on-line lessons on personal patternmaking.
Having taught in a wide range of communities from isolated and remote
locations to large urban centres, Lauraline is pleased to add anywhere in
the world including a-computer-near you through the WWW as her current
classroom.
Lauraline AKA TheSloperLady
CADTERNS Custom Clothing Inc.
http://www.cadterns.com
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