Vintage Fabrics  - IN SEARCH OF WARP ENDS By Joan Kiplinger Join Joan's New Vintage Fabric Discussion List!

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August/September, 2000:

Fast Times at Textile High –Vintage Sweatshops and Fraud Meet the Law

¨ The six year old cried silently but continued spinning her linen as the guild matron high in her pulpit rang a bell to signal a whipping for the young friend beside her who was charged with being neglectful. Of course this was 1677 Germany. But man progresses and things will get better, right?

¨ The street smelled continuously as it was the only place for refuse of any kind. In shoddy factory town housing, families were packed together in unhealthy, filthy living conditions, forced to eat from one plate and sleep in the same bed, work long hours spinning for almost no pay. Of course this was 1788 England. But man progresses and things will get better, right?

¨ Across the sea at a mill young girls with flax fastened to their waists spun with both hands as younger children turned the wheels for them 10 hours every day but Sunday. Of course this was 1789 New England. But man progresses and things will get better, right?

¨ She screamed but to no avail as she was stampeded to death by the onrush of several hundred seamstresses racing to escape the engulfing flames. Of course this was 1911 New York City’s lower east, the great Triangle Shirtwaist Co. fire , a tragedy where 150 lives were lost due to burning or jumping out of windows, all because exits on the upper floors of the loft building had been locked to prevent "loss of materials." But man progress and things will get better, right?.

¨ And of modern times? Sweatshops and backstreet operations still exist anywhere on this globe under conditions which rival the worst of the past. But man progresses and things will get better, right?

And How Was Your Day at Work, Dear?

Since the beginning of time man has commandeered fellowmen, women, children and slaves into service with little or no regard for their welfare. The textile industry was no exception in its rise to power.

However, it took the industrial revolution and the creation of a middle class beginning in the 19^th century to slowly reverse working conditions. Charles Dickens in a visit to America in 1836 was impressed with the Lowell Mills in Lowell, Massachusetts, noting the healthy appearance of workers, clean living quarters and a healthy diet and that few children were employed.

By the 20^th century special buildings were needed to house the new larger and more sophisticated machinery. This forever changed the workplace from a cottage industry to a factory setting. Despite improved production methods and some labor concessions, textile workers still saw little improvement in wages, hours and working conditions.

A modern mule spinning room in 1912 at  Potomasha Mills,  New Bedford, Mass. - Story of Textiles, 1912

Modern weave room in 1912 at Chicopee Mfg. Co., Mass.  Commercial photos of these two mills want you to believe these are ideal workplaces; possibly they were as the author was very particular about employer practices. - Story of Textiles, 1912

A strong push by Samuel Gompers in the 1880s for worker reform and organization for labor in all sectors resulted in the newly reorganized Federation of Organized Trade and Labor Unions in 1884, later to become the powerful AFL

In 1900 the Women’s Trade League was formed to educate women about the advantages of union membership. In 1909 women from the needle trades [garment and textile workers] struck under the banner of Ladies Garment Workers. Known as the Uprising of 20,000, they fought against shirtwaist and dress manufactures and won a 52-hour week plus wage increases.

Two years later the tragic fire at New York’s Triangle Shirtwaist Factory [p.1] paved the way for industrial safety and fire prevention measures.

Radicals in 1912 defied employers at a mill in Lawrence, Massachusetts. The Industrial Workers of the World, called Wobblies, struck against a 3-1/2 percent pay decrease and an increase of two hours to a 54-hour work week. The strike restored pay and hours.

But so pitiful were conditions that in 1916 author Laura Baldt decried in her book on sewing and clothing that it was "highly important that the purchaser should know of conditions which attend the laborers engaged in the preparation of fibers, the manufacturer of fabrics and wearing apparel, so that they may aid the growing endeavor to better these conditions through investigation, the enactment and enforcement of laws and the education of the individual buyer."

She cited the plight of woman and children who had been "forced to huddle in overcrowded, badly lighted, poorly ventilated tenement houses where long hours, little pay and ill heath are the common lot of all. The evils they face are unprotected machinery, firetrap buildings and bad sanitary conditions."

A sign that times were changing for the better was noted by textile educators Mary S.Woolman and Ellen Beers McGowan in a 1926 revision of their 1913 book Textiles.

"The Great War raised the price of all textiles and brought about conditions which made necessary for an entire reorganization of textile industries. Textile study, as a part of education for teaching Home Economics, now touches fields of scientific, sociological and economic interest. Departments of the government are working with women in the standardization of textiles. the industries are seeking the cooperation of the woman consumer. Honest advertising, the training of the sales force, truth in statement and research in all textile fields are movements which have risen since this book first appeared.

"To interpret these new conditions, to meet the needs of the women who have been brought into new and vital relations with the industrial world, to keep pace with the widespread strengthening of the Home Economics Movement and the awakened interest in textiles of three million consumers in the General Federation of Women’s Clubs……….have made necessary a complete revision of this book."

It is not within the scope of this column to cite all the gradual and hard-won advancements gained by laborers, but it is from their early unrest and strikes that many laws were passed locally and nationally to protect them. As a matter of national policy, the Taft -Harley Act of 1947 gave legal status and protection to unions and named them the collective bargaining agent.

Ironically, the birth of unions was their ultimate demise. The 1970s marked a low point as textile and other industries headed overseas. Sadly, few mills remain in the US and we now look overseas for some of the finest in fabrics.

Thoroughly Mix Glue and Starch and Add a Pinch of Goat Hair

At the same time workers were fighting substandard labor practices and low wages, they were caught in the middle by the increased output enabled by new technology.

By the 1920s there was great demand for cheap and novelty fabrics. Rather than investing in research and development manufacturers bowed to the prospects of increased profits.

Poor-grade cottons were heavily sized and starched or otherwise disguised to resemble quality woven, highly mercerized goods. Often seconds and damaged fabrics were passed off as perfect. To their chagrin, both sewers and buyers would often find after laundering that their garments would be in shreds, misshapen and gauzy or discolored from loss of sizing and dye runs.

The production output was so bad that in the early 1900s and into the 1920s and 30s many authors of textile reference and sewing books, such as Laura Baldt mentioned earlier, departed from educational narrative to devote several chapters to consumer education and berating the industry, urging industry-wide reforms both in production methods and quality of employee training. And if the industry could not or would not heal itself, then government should pass laws to protect the the buying public.

The first regulatory action to protect consumers and regulate commerce was the creation of the Federal Trade Commission in 1914. It had jurisdiction over commerce between states and foreign nations and broad powers to investigate and prevent unfair methods of competition.

In 1918 the American Standards Association was formed to provide specification guidelines to the industry. Silk, cotton, wool and the overall textile trade industries as well as a number other textile-related groups each formed associations to aid in the raising of production standards and promoting quality control.

Here are some notable actions as a result of their collaboration and leadership:

1921 – Federal Specification Board, organized under the Bureau of Budget – bidders to supply government with fabrics or garments had to meet specifications for fiber content, type of construction, color, weight and, freshness as tested at Bureau of Standards.

1924 -- artificial silk was legally changed to rayon. Imitators of fabrics such as Viyella's patented 55% virgin wool/45% cotton blend washable flannel had to state their fiber percentages and choose brand names that could not be confused with Viyella. Clydella, containing less than 25% wool, was an example of a worthy competitor.

Two  fabrics whose labels guaranteed product was genuine in name and fiber content. Because of patents, imitators had to use different fiber percentages.  - Textiles: Fiber to Fabric, 1967

1938 -- National Consumer Retailers Council – established to stimulate adequate standards for consumer goods and informative labeling. However, as late as 1948 labels were more advertising than educational.

1939—Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939 [effective1941] -- presence of substitutes and mixtures in spun, woven, knitted, felted in wool products had to be stated. Specific definitions were given for wool fiber of sheep, goat and other specialty fiber animals, reprocessed wool, reused wool and wool product. Illegal transportation of misbranded products was punishable.

1948 – Specifications released by ASA for muslin and percale bleached cotton bedding weight, size and thread count.

1949 [1953]– Specifications released by ASA for minimum requirements for rayon and acetate fabrics; named 51 end uses and tests to determine if fabric suitable for specified end use. Color tags or sewn-in in labels were recommended: red = dry cleanable; yellow = wash at hand temperature of 195 degrees F; green = wash up to 160 degrees F.

1951 [52] – Fur Products Labeling Act -- protects consumers and others against misbranding, false advertising and false invoicing of fur products and furs.

1953 [54] – Flammable Fabrics Act -- prohibits introduction or movement in interstate commerce of articles of wearing apparel and fabrics which are so highly flammable as to be dangerous when worn by individuals.

1958[60] – Textile Fiber Products Identification Act -- protects producers and consumers against misbranding and false advertising of fiber content or textile fiber products. Labels are required for generic name and percentages of all fibers present in amounts more than 50%; label must disclose name of person and firm marketing products and source of imported fiber produce. Provides specific definitions of silk, wool, linen, cotton and 16 generic manufactured fibers. Trademarks have to be linked with generic names of fiber [65% Dacronä polyester, 35% cotton, for example]. If there is no trademark then labeling such as 80% rabbit, 20 nylon is acceptable.

1962 – Government uses ASA standards for purchasing bedding for military services and agencies.

As new health, environmental and safety measures are required and new synthetics are produced, more than ever detailed label information is a necessity for the consumer. This is particularly important for sewers who mostly have to rely on minimum manufacturer information printed on the bolt.

So often we take fabric for granted without realizing its backbreaking heritage and the enormity of bringing it to the retail counter. The next time you see a ball of cotton or some shorn wool, reflect on all the money, persons, equipment and specialized skills that it has taken and all the struggles and tragedies endured to turn them into cloth.

 References:

The Story of Textiles, Perry Walton 1912
Pictorial Review, Passing of the Hired Girl May 1914
Textiles & Clothing, Ellen Beers McGowan and Charlotte Waite   1919
Lippincotts Home Manual, Laura Baldt 1922
Grace Denny, Fabrics 1923, 1928, 1962
Textiles, Woolman and McGowan 1926
Textile Fabrics, George Johnson 1927
Textile Fabrics and Their Use, 4^th edition, Katherine Paddock Hess 1948
Guidebook to Man-made Textile Fibers, United Piece Dye Works 1964
Textiles -- Fiber to Fabric, Potter-Corbman 1967
AFL-CIO American Federationist, UAW Local 1866 March 1981
Fabric Reference, 2^nd edition, Mary Humphries 1999

UPDATES

Good shopping:

Linda Breman, bobbin lace artisan, offers a wide range of vintage fabric, linens, clothing, accessories curtains, trims and wedding gowns, mostly in the 1920-70 range; also custom work and repair at http://www.vintagefiberworks.com or email her at hippie51@aol.com

Rosies Needlebook Museum offers a fascinating history on needlebooks, collections, talk and trade plus links to other unusual related museums and sites. http://www.geocities.com/wellesley/garden/7484    or email  owner Connie McGinnis at rosierider@yahoo.com

More auction goofies:

§ This fabric would make a gorgeous dress with a full skirt of lovely sheer curtains

§ Vintage sheer vicuous

Keep checking your bias tape and rickrack wrappers against bias tape chart for updating. The original chart started out two months ago with 28 brands; current total is 70! The response of many contributors is sincerely appreciated.

Next: A stroll through yesteryear’s fabric stores

The arbitrary cut-off date for this Vintage Fabric column is 1960. To stay within the scope of this timeframe, reference materials published up to that date are the prime source of information to more accurately capture actual thoughts of the time.

Joan Kiplinger is an antique doll costumer and vintage fabric addict who learned to sew on her grandmother's treadle and has been peddling fabrications ever since.