Miracle Fibers: rayon
and nylon
First there was rayon, then nylon. They weren’t very lovable,
despite the hype promoting their advantages. Thanks to technology not only have they
become acceptable, but they laid the groundwork for generations of new synthetics.
For some reason, early rayon and nylon tend to be passed over by
most vintage fabric collectors. They are not suitable for quilting nor heirloom sewing nor
much in demand for street wear. It is probably the theatrical and historical costumers and
to some extent doll dressers who most seek these fabrics.
Up to 1960 synthetic names were marketed far enough apart to be
solidly identifiable and recognizable – the rayons, nylon, orlon, dacron, acrilan and
vicara. We knew what to do with them, how to sew with them; what to expect of them. Then
beginning in the early 1960s fiber construction took on a whole new meaning and from that
point on most of us felt we needed a degree in textiles and Latin to navigate the fabric
stores.
As the histories of rayon and nylon are interesting,
this column talks to their development rather than the fabric.
From rayonne to artificial silk to rayon
Of all the synthetics rayon is probably the most confusing
and misunderstood and received the worst press.
To begin with, rayon is not a true synthetic. It is made from
cellulose, the solid part of cell walls for plant life. Cellulose for rayon is obtained
from wood pulp and cotton linters which are short fibers left on the cotton seed after the
long fibers have been removed. There are three processes used in its manufacture to
produce viscose, cuprammonium and acetate. Each has its own special properties.
Rayon has been around for more than 250 years but not as a fabric.
The term rayon has only been with us since 1924.
The idea to artificially duplicate the silk worm process was
advanced in 1665 by an English scientist. It lay dormant until 1754 when a French
scientist reported it was possible to make varnishes into threads which imitated silk.
More than 100 years later another Frenchman, Count Chardonnet, produced the first fiber
having commercial success as a textile. In 1884 rayonne was born from his nitrocellulose
process.
Right on its heels the cuprammonium process was developed, a third
in 1982 by two Englishmen called viscose , followed by acetate. The Chardonnet process is
no longer in production.
Rayonne was more widely known as artificial silk. The name was
outlawed in 1924 and the name rayon was given to the fabric. Manufactured in this country
in 1911, artificial silk got a cold reception from the public. It was not good looking nor
good wearing and as late as 1920, wound up on bargain counters.
Eventually, rayon started to catch on. In 1930 Sears offered
yard goods in rayon and cotton flat crepe, rayon and cotton brocaded flat crepe, rayon and
cotton alpaca and an assortment of washable all-rayon flat crepes. In 1933 Sears offered
rayon taffeta guaranteed not to crack, rayon twill satin, textured rayon crepes and rayon
seersucker, all sunfast. By 1939, Montgomery Wards was offering Petalspun, an all-spun
washable rayon; Petalqeen, all rayon flat crepe prints with only 1% shrinkage; and
Spunblend, a spun rayon and cotton blend. All rayons were advertised as being brilliant
new patterns
However, even as late as the 1950s rayon or rayon blends in yard
goods and ready to wear were still suspect. Anyone who is familiar with butcher linen
knows the horrors of this fabric stretching lengthwise while shrinking crossgrain, of
bemburg-type sheers stretching unevenly causing hemline havoc and in general, the rotting
of fibers around armholes and seam puckering and splitting.
Fortunately research continued to improve the production process,
making rayon an essential fiber that proved it could be attractive and desirable on its
own or as blend with natural fibers.
For quick reference, here is a summary of how rayon is made and the
three methods by which cellulose is transformed into rayon yarn:
VISCOSE cellulose is treated with caustic soda and carbon
bisulphide, converting it into a gold liquid about the color and consistency of honey,
called viscose. Viscose is forced through fine holes in end of a nozzle, called a
spinnerette, directly into a chemical bath where it hardens into fine strands. When washed
and bleached these strands become rayon yarn.
Viscose was first introduced commercially in this country in 1911
and by 1950 accounted for 66% of US rayon production.
ACETATE cellulose is combined with acetic acid [refined
vinegar] making a substance called cellulose acetate. This is dissolved in acetone, then
forced through the holes in a spinnerette directly into a tube. In the tube, warm air
evaporates the acetone and the cellulose acetate emerges as dry filaments.
Acetate was first introduced in this country on a commercial basis
in 1919 and by 1950 accounted for 32% of rayon production.
CUPRAMMONIUM purified cotton linters or wood pulp are treated
chemically with copper ammonia which dissolves cellulose. The liquid thus obtained is
pumped through the holes in a spinnerette into a solution which coagulates it into
filaments.
Cuprammonium was first produced commercially in this country in
1927.
Filament Rayon rayon yarn, regardless
of process, is produced in the form of a continuous
thread and is known as filament rayon.
Spun Rayon rayon can be made or cut in short lengths and are
called rayon staples. They are twisted together [spun] into yarn and known as spun rayon
fabrics.
By 1950, 104 fabrics were available as rayon blends.
That interest in vintage rayon flourishes is evidenced by collectors
of vintage Hawaiian aloha shirts. Many are made of rayon and a book is being written on
the history of this subject.
NYLON 66: the first true
synthetic fiber
It was a fiber no one was looking for back in 1927 when DuPont
scientists were deep into research on learning basic scientific facts that would benefit
all humanity.
One of those facts concerned understanding how and why small
molecules that make up all matter sometimes unite to form giant molecules found in silk,
cotton, rubber and other materials. This giant molecule is called a polymer, which means
many parts.
During the next two years of research, the scientific team learned
that small molecules unite to form chainlike molecules of great length similar to paper
clips. They are called linear superpolymers.
One of the chemists working with a batch of molten material
belonging to the superpolymers noticed he could draw it out into a long fiber like taffy
candy. When cooled he found it could be pulled out to three or four times of its original
length. Such a thing had never been seen before in this type of compound. It was not a
strong fiber nor elastic and didn’t look as though it would be good for anything.
But the team persisted and succeeded in creating a type of polymer
called a polyamide. and squirted it from a hypodermic needle. Thus was produced the first
fiber now known as nylon.
So promising was this fiber, dubbed polymer 66, that it took 10
years to perfect it and have it reach the public. It was estimated that the first pound of
nylon produced cost $27 million.
Toothbrushes with nylon bristles were the first products to be sold
in the country in 1938. From thick bristle to fine thread took all the efforts of
scientists and everyone connected with the textile industry. In 1939 the first nylon-yarn
spinning machine went into operation and on May 15, 1940 nylon hose went on sale and it
was bedlam at every store.
World War II cut short the commercial success of nylon. When it
became available after the war, it was a disappointment. One suffocated in nylon garments;
whites yellowed and could not be restored; it was a wrinkled mess after washing and
difficult if not impossible to iron; seams puckered and split. My personal experience with
the first yard goods available around 1947 was terrible. Fabric was wispy, clingy and hard
to cut; thread to sew with had not been perfected. Seams frayed to nothing as they were
being stitched.
As with rayon, research kept improving nylon’s capabilities and
led to other polymer textiles: orlon, an acrylic fiber, in 1950, followed in swift
succession by two other acrylics dynel and acrilan.; then the first polyester terylene,
produced in Britain. DuPont bought the rights to produce it here and called it dacron.
By 1957 nylon was gaining respect. Wards catalog of that year
offered floral and dotted swiss flocked nylons, nylon chiffon, assorted dress lengths in
bold print nylon, arnel and cotton, arnel sailcloth, dacron shantung, dacron and rayon
linen weave, and all-dacron suiting.
The 1950s was the last decade for natural fibers to dominate. To get
an idea of the explosion of man-made fibers [now called manufactured fibers] which started
in the 1960s and has not let up, see the January and February columns for the flood of
rayon and MF trademarks.
Sources: Textile Fibers and Their Use, Katherine Hess, 1948
Rayon Glossary, American Viscose Corp, 1950
Miracle Fabrics, Newcomb & Kenny, 1957
UPDATES 1.
Another vintage fabric source: Julienne Stewart
of Point Pleasant Beach NJ. offers a wide selection of oldies;
will provide swatches and scans. Web site under construction.
Email her at zuhzuh@home.com
2. A new mail list to discuss vintage
fabrics was formed several weeks ago. To join, web site is http://www.quiltropolis.com
Access mail list, then vintage fabrics to register. It’s free and fun. Swap, share,
ask and learn. Includes fabric swatch exchange.
2. At trail’s end – in tracking down
indianhead, quadriga and kettlecloth, I had contacted the Museum for Textiles in Ontario
Canada. Research staff informed me that the textile industry kept poor records. Many were
destroyed by fire so thrown out as space was needed. I did manage to obtain a 1953 ad for
E&W quadriga cloth, so at least we have a manufacturer. However, I cannot find any
reference to this company.
MORE FRACTURED
FABRICS
Goofies from the auction sites: Beautiful
lace and crotch trim [thanx, LS,]
Old and beautiful peka
Poking fun at my own goofies Are
there words whose definitions you simply cannot remember and
you have to run for the dictionary each time? I have great
difficulty with the following fabrics. For some reason I get
a mental vision of something else which always takes precedence
and poses a stumbling block to registering the real meaning.
When I first saw the words below, these were the first impressions
I had and they are indelibly stamped forever:
Balbriggan – something pirates use to string up victims
Brilliantine – a little dab’’ll doo ya
Fustian – someone who loves the opera Faust
Henrietta – I saw the TV movie where stars fell on this
Prunella – sister of Cruella deVille [the one who stole
Disney’s dalmations]
Tricotine – something to chew on like tobacco or gum
Wigan – southern Ohio or Pittsburghese for wagon
[Cleveland strikes back]
If you have any fabric deficiencies, share them with
us.
New Project
Next month deals with bias tape and will feature a list of
all the brands and manufacturers and other information. Researchers
are members of the Quiltropolis vintage fabrics list. This
will be an ongoing project with a lot of holes to fill in.
Judith and Jessie of fabrics.net will format this information
in chart form to show at a glance manufacturers, brands, types
of bias tape fabrics, company history, other products. You
are invited to join us in this project so check your bias
tape wrappers.
