Vintage Fabrics  - IN SEARCH OF WARP ENDS By Joan Kiplinger Join Joan's New Vintage Fabric Discussion List!

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March/April, 2001:

Profiles in Collecting: Starwars in Fiber Space
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7. When you bring fabric home, what is the first thing you do?

Clothier Julienne Cuddles it, examines it again to see if purchase was a big mistake, cuddles it again. Gives garment[s] a good airing, then checks if immediate cleaning is needed or can be hung until ready for use and then cleaned.

Costumer Linda Memory has been known to play hit or miss with reality so immediately writes down what it is, where purchased, estimated date and all the other known little details about it.

Dealer Nan First, just looks at it! It is a holiday to look at vintage fabrics never seen before. Then makes a closer inspection to recheck for flaws, holes, stains, rips, etc.

Quilter Laurette Looks through reference books to see if it can be identified. Has many books on fabric and quilts so usually that fabric or a similar one is found.

Quilter Pat As bulk of fabrics is by mail, they have been purchased sight unseen. First thing is to inspect and evaluate overall condition. If fabric is weak or has been misrepresented, it goes right back to seller for a refund. However, majority of fabric is quite clean and neatly pressed just as it came from the bolt; that original condition denotes proper storage. In those instances when fabric is less than pristine, seller has taken initiative to launder, starch, dry and iron.

Saver Dorothy Wants to be alone to savor the moment [well, cats are allowed to be part of ceremony]. Spreads out fabric, smoothes it, detects type of smell, creases it and feels it. Instinctively knows what fabric type is or else does burn test. Looks at overall pattern for repeats and type of pattern as a way to determine era and date. Notices weave, structure, cut – straight or bias. Looks at it for a long time, puts away. Time and again will drag out and repeat the same inspection. This can go on for months or years.

Took two years before anything done with two quilt tops bought at a fair. One was a true string quilt where blocks were sewn onto a North Carolina newspaper dating between 1951-56. But some of the fabrics were older, possibly 1940s. Other quilt top was a conglomeration of fabrics and how it was sewn is a total story unto itself.

8. What cleaning products do you use? Do you wash fabric before storing? Iron?

Saver Dorothy Uses a gentle wash product; sometimes only swishes in warm water if it’s dirty and disgusting to handle. Washing is a whole science. Household items for use are washed if fabric content is whole and healthy and can tolerate a machine. Old quilt tops take a longer time to decide on a cleaning process. Is not into conservation so each block is examined for type of fabric within block and then cleaning determinations are made.

Textile Joan If fabric is to be washed, it is soaked and handwashed in textile washing paste and sodium perborate. If heavily soiled or has rust spots fabric is soaked first in PERK and Boost. Fabric is dried on wooden rack outdoors or indoors depending on weather. Avoids ironing unless it is a flat rayon or other type fabric which dries horribly wrinkled. Usually handpressing or smoothing is sufficient for most fabrics.

9. How do you store and organize your fabric? Do you use acid-free supplies?

Clothier Julienne Have just begun using acid-free tissue to stuff older clothing. Usually stores dresses and blouses folded over a hanger in a way that won’t put strain on shoulders or cause that area to fade. Also drapes old muslin sheets over many garments. Sadly, some garments have to be stored in attic due to closet space shortage but area is ventilated. Vintage fabrics occupy one room stored uncovered on open shelves away from windows. Fabric is refolded often to prevent fading at creases.

Dealer Nan Stores and organizes fabrics by categories such as cotton, silk, rayon, retro, etc. Hangs fabrics on hangers so they can breathe. Keeps cedar chips and cedar boxes away from fabrics.

Quilter Laurette Sorts 19^th century fabrics by size – small, medium and large boxes. Nicer or more fragile fabrics are laid out flat or with as few folds as possible. Lines boxes with well-washed cotton fabrics. As acid-free boxes turn acidic after a few years, doesn’t want to invest in them. Early 20^th century fabrics are stored in a cupboard. Some are rolled on muslin covered- bolts. Others are just folded and stacked according to type.

Quilter Pat Organizes by fabric type and color. Vintage yard goods are kept separate from feedsacks although feels there is not much value in this arrangement and debates consolidation. Beyond that, they are separated by color. Fabric is stored in ideal location, a sauna which has been sectioned off. Area is super-insulated and no light can get in. Fabrics are protected from having any contact with wood; thick terry towels are one example used to separate.

Saver Dorothy Uses no acid-free products. Stores or hangs old items in cotton pillowcases in the closet. Rolls tablecloths and the like.

Textile Joan Uses museum archival acid-free products even though there is a big to-do about some acid-free containers today. Supplies are now available lignin free [wood removed] with added buffers which vastly improves and extends shelf life. It boils down to a tradeoff whether to replace acid-free boxes periodically or frequently wash muslin protectors and liners to remove acid buildup and dust.

Each piece of fabric goes into an acid-free tissue envelope which is labeled for type of fabric, age and provenance. Each fabric category has its own labeled acid-free box in which those envelopes are placed. Trims, laces and ribbons are stored in acid-free cloth-bound archival boxes. All are stored on shelves in a closet. This system is more effective for small yardage. And certainly washed unbleached muslin or other old cotton protective wrapping is essential for larger pieces such as rolled wool felt or velvet.

10. Do you examine your collection periodically for possible damage and to refold or rehang?

Clothier Julienne Yes, this is a must.

Costumer Linda Takes out treasures every year or so and thinks about them, especially a fabulous dark green/blue silk 1870s dress on padded hanger in the armoire and black silk skirt with balls and jet. Loves to show people the stitches and lines. Checks all garments on those occasions. Dreams of having a little museum with clothes, frills and stories where area people could leave family memories for others to see and dream about. Claims this can be done by winning the lottery……

Dealer Nan Refolds fabric periodically as so many vintage fabrics have been folded in the same position for so many years.

Quilter Laurette Sorts once a month and refolds if needed. Tries to provide the best of care.

Quilter Pat Monitors fabric condition each time new fabrics are added, which is frequently.

Saver Dorothy Definitely yes.

Textile Joan Constantly rummaging in boxes pulling out fabric for doll clothes so fabrics get a onceover and refolded or rerolled many times.

11. Do you have or intend to compile a swatch catalog? What do you record in it? How is it arranged? Do you use it to share with others such as quilting or fabric discussion groups?

Clothier Julienne After many attempts, it appears this is something for retirement. Has just started saving swatches. Can’t decide how to catalog, possibly a photo album with small pockets is a good idea. Would arrange by fabric types – cotton, silk, wool, rayon. Labels would contain fabric width, garment origins, age, fabric content, if washed and what cleaned in, and suggested uses other than what it was originally used for. Would discuss swatches with other fabric nuts.

Costumer Linda Has a swatch shelf which contains all swatches and information. Keeps them in envelopes. They are next to reference books for immediate reference access. Uses both to teach one on one.

Dealer Nan Website serves as swatch catalog and is continually updated. Has a personal swatch catalog of unusual fabrics which need to be identified and hopes eventually to name them all through research.

Quilter Laurette Has been cataloging for about three years. Large notebooks contain samples of antique fabrics. Also buys or trades samples of 19^th century fabrics and has several notebooks of those. All are in acid-free supplies. Sorts in chronological order, noting year of manufacture. Shares notebooks with antique quilt study group both for fabrics and cataloging process and supplies for those who want to start cataloging.

Quilter Pat Sees swatch catalog as a wonderful tool to have but unfortunately the only way it would happen is if the body had the equivalent energy of six persons to expend for such a project. It would be time consuming but invaluable in the end.

Saver Dorothy Has a catalog of all quilts made. Contains photos of quilts; instructions; samples of fabric and where purchased; source of pattern – magazine and/or changes made; for whom it was made; dates; inspirations for original design. Ditto for cross stitched and handwoven cloth. Took a six-week weaving course about 25 years ago; bought loom and the whole nine yards. Sold loom but still has woven articles.

Also has photo collection/fabric match-up notation to illustrate genealogy-fabric connection. Intends to catalog fabric by swatches someday before details about them are forgotten.

Textile Joan Just completed cataloging. There are two binders for cotton and one for silk/wool/nylon/rayon. Fabric is in alpha order. Each swatch notated where known or applicable for type, year or era, width, washed or original finish, thread count, details about weave and printing/dye process, finish and provenance. Binders, pages and protectors and pen are all acid-free archival supplies. Binders will be donated at some point to Kent State Fashion School and Museum library, providing it is acceptable to curators.

12. In what areas of textile science or fabric recognition/properties do you have problems? Do you have a broad goal to increase your knowledge either through self-education, discussion groups, classes?

Clothier Julienne Used to have problems differentiating silk from polyester but since learning a lot over the internet, that now can be easily determined by the burn test. Between that test, microscope and linen tester and old books, the process of elimination is much easier. Increasing knowledge is an ongoing venture.

Costumer Linda Has problem with microscope and needs to overcome fear of getting it out and not being able to work it properly. Is forced into action only when there is an immediate need for information.

Dealer Nan Finds vintage silks can be tricky. They are not as common to find as other vintage fabrics as they were probably more expensive and used for more specific purposes. There are many different types of silks; constantly discovers ones never seen before. These have to be researched and identified before putting them up for sale.

Wants to visit research libraries such as the Latimer Quilt and Textile Center in Tillamook OR which houses fabric samples dating back to 1800s and Oregon State University. Touching fabric gives a feel for the time and an opportunity to date fabric.

Quilter Laurette Continuously studies, using books on textile printing and production. Belongs to a study group for antique quilts and textiles. Enrolls in local classes. Believes best way to learn is by studying fabrics themselves whether in quilts, garments or yardage.

Quilter Pat See #13.

Saver Dorothy Biggest problem is color; no ability to hold color in mind. Always has to have swatch in hand. As an aid, bought a color circle and books on how to mix colors when painting to get an idea of color bases. For fabric recognition has books on textile identification so is always learning about the subject.

Textile Joan Technical areas involving entire production of fabric is difficult to digest in one gulp so there is an ongoing self-education program. Visits to Kent State and historical societies help to broaden knowledge of fabric names during their popular fashion use. Trying to get local college to offer courses or seminars in fabric identification and preservation.

13. If you could only have three textile reference books or periodicals, which would they be?

Clothier Julienne Fabric dictionary, costume and old sewing books and Piecework Magazine.

Costumer Linda Florence Montgomery’s Textiles in America, 1650-1870, Julie Parker’s All About Cotton [Silk, Wool, Linen] and Mary Brooks Picken International Domestic Arts Society, 1923, because of its fabric tables on natural fibers, weaves, names, widths and price/yd, lace identification, embroideries, findings, mending and a dictionary of useful terms. Mary Humphries Fabric Reference is an indispensable runner-up.

Dealer Nan Susan Meller and Jost Elffers Textile Designs; contains 1800 color photos of fabric patterns from the past 200 years. Photos are categorized by themes such as floral, geometric, etc., and further categorized by art movements such as Art Deco and Art Nouveau. Dates and country of origin are also listed. Julie Parkers All About Silk with actual swatches to help identify, descriptions, uses, care and more.

Third are vintage books on textiles and fabrics such as a 1929 home economics book which provides a goldmine of information on what fabrics and colors were popular, how much they cost, etc.

Quilter Laurette Clues in the Calico, Calico and Chintz and Textile Designs. While all pertain to quilts they also focus on fabric history and identification.

Quilter Pat Views ongoing education as a life-long quest; education need not be through a formal setting. Personal library is extensive; makes it a point to not just buy books that have quilt in the title. Feels books from other fields can be excellent resources and can infuse fresh new ideas into an interest that is suffering from being over-examined. Tries to keep mind young and impressionable and to assimilate everything as an added resource.

Saver Dorothy Not fair, has to list by type. Old textile reference books which contain contemporary information from that publishing year. Old sewing machine instruction booklets as they concentrate on fabrics available at the time model was made. Books showing clothes from previous eras which helps with genealogy hobby. For Swedish or other Nordic readers – Kropp och klader by R.Broby-Johansen is a good book.

Textile Joan All editions of Grace Denny’s Fabrics, 1923 to 1962; John Hoye’s Staple Cotton Fabrics, 1942; and Mary Humphries’ Fabric Glossary/Fabric Reference, 1999, is tied with Sears and Wards catalogs 1888-1957. All other books are tied for fourth.

14. Advice to beginners and other words of wisdom

Clothier Julienne Stick around persons who know more than you and drink it all in. Ask questions. Get books on the subject and read them before going to bed – the mind digests it all while you sleep. Vintage clothing is a wonderful way to learn history of vintage fabrics. Just seeing them made into garments is a great picture for the mind to store and will reappear just when you need information.

Costumer Linda READ. Go to senior centers and volunteer your time and get to know some of the old sewers. Ask them to tell you about their sewing experience and how they learned. Ask them if they still have a stash that they could teach you about. Join the local historical society. You could even be offered castoffs or rejects. Stop at yard sales and where people are cleaning out old houses.

Most important words of wisdom came from mother and a mentor – "Do It Now." Don’t wait until you know more or you have more money or have more stuff. Start right now with what you have and do whatever it is you want to do.

Dealer Nan Don’t be afraid to say "I don’t know." The most interesting and enjoyable thing about vintage fabric is to learn something new each day. If you are not sure if fabric is from the 30s or 40s, ask for help and research it. Dating fabric is very tricky. If a fabric is 33" to 36" wide, you can be sure that it is probably vintage. However, many oldies from the 50s are 44" wide.

Selvages will often have manufacturers name printed. This helps if you know when manufacturer first started in business, went out of business, changed names or merged. The more you study, the more you know which clues to look for in dating.

Quilter Laurette Take time to learn about vintage fabrics. Study up on them. Look for fabrics in different markets such as antique stores, textile dealers, flea markets, etc. Study the quality of each piece vs the price seller is asking so that you learn what a reasonable price is. Keep an open mind because the rare and unusual will often cost many times more.

Fabric is an unusual item to collect and yet an obvious choice for women. Afterall, they manufactured it from growing fiber to weaving to dying, purchasing, creating clothing to warm themselves and family and shared, traded, saved and preserved – is it any wonder that some of us would find fabric irresistible.

Fabric brings back memories of watching mothers or grandmothers sew clothing for family and household. Memories of the first time we were allowed to help and the first time we were allowed to make something all on our own. Will always remember the pride in making first garment at age 11, knowing it was a good job. Made most clothes and prom dress during teens; even made wedding dress and veil. Has never stopped sewing and making clothing for family. Fabric has always been an important part of life.

Quilter Pat To begin exploring an area of interest requires a brave, bold step in that direction. Disentangle yourself from that which holds you back. Refuse to accommodate thoughts you may have about self-inadequacy and negativity. Create deadlines for yourself to start producing. Often the best work is done under deadline pressure. You just have to stop flitting around and put your butt in a chair and work. Open up and do whatever it takes to free you to experiment. If practicality is holding you back, fix the problem by using cheap fabric to play with. It’s all a learning experience.

Saver Dorothy I AM a beginner! Help! Other than that, always trust your gut feeling and don’t intellectualize.

Textile Joan Buy at least one good textile reference book and catalog for each decade. Buy current magazines dealing with old textiles. If there is no one you know to help you with fabric identification, join a quilt group which most quilting stores sponsor. You don’t have to make a quilt; just converse and learn about fabrics. Attend antique and quilt shows, browse flea markets. Ask, ask, ask. There are no stupid questions.

And One Final Word, Then We Must Do This Again

What do you see as the chief differences between quilters and the textilists?

Clothier Julienne Quilters look more to design or print in the fabric while textilists and others look more to the weave and drape of fabric.

Costumer Linda Quilters are more particular in what they collect. They tend to collect what they can use. A textilist/collector takes anything that’s made of fibers -- now take this neat old section of rep carpeting….and how about this horse blanket with part of the leather straps still attached…and how about this….

Dealer Nan Whereas vintage fabric collectors want it all, quilters have something specific in mind such as color schemes or print pattern theme. This is probably true to a point for some and on the mark for others. But we can all relate to the saying that you just can’t have enough fabric.

Quilter Laurette Quilters focus on cotton fabrics and are interested in any fabric that may have been used in a quilt, ranging from cotton, silk, wool and linen. When we quilters study quilts of the 1950-70 era we can spot the many different fabrics including polys and other synthetics. Prints/pattern on fabrics are important. They can pinpoint an era.

Actually, I don’t think there is much difference between a textilist and myself except that perhaps I don’t collect a wide range of fabrics. Perhaps there are certain properties in fabric that might interest one type of collector over another but perhaps that is where the individual personality comes in.

Quilter Pat The more mature individuals are with their interest, the less extreme differences between them. Each interest grows and gives way to other interests; over time they overlap so that in this case quilter and textilist become concerned about the same things.

Just as the textilist concerns herself with the integrities of cloth, so does the quilter but for vastly different end results. Talk to any knitter, weaver, spinner – their particular skills lead them down many paths. The knitter becomes a spinner to control her yarns; the weaver becomes a sewer to wear her cloth, the spinner embroiders to use up leftover bits. As years go by, their interests intermingle more. Is it any wonder where their art forms take them?

Saver Dorothy Not sure I understand the question – too much crossover here. There’s all types of quilters – artist, wearable art, reproduction fabric, Kirk-collection type and on and on. Then there’s the quilter who chases antique quilts. Maybe that’s more to the point; they are the specialists and those articles I always read. They can see the age/period of a quilt and at the same time see the quilt block structure and how that structure fits into the history of the quilt.

Textile Joan Quilters have more imaginative fun with fabrics and don’t get hung up on the scientifics of why threads dangle idly from warp or woof. Their prime concerns deal with condition, weight suitability, age/color dating and historical significance/heritage. We prunes have to play Sherlock Holmes, first looking to analysis -- specific names [persian lawn is different than gauzy lawn or india lawn], how many twists and turns to the ply, warp and filler variations and types of finish. But in the end, both sides reap the benefits of each other’s knowledge and research.

My thanks to all who participated in this column for shedding educational light on their personal collecting preferences and helping to enrich our appreciation of vintage fabrics.

To contact business owners in this column:

Nan Jaeger Revival Fabrics 1920-70 http://www.revivalfabrics.com

Linda Learn Class Act Fabrics http://www.classactfabrics.com

Julienne Stewart Julienne’s Vintage Fabrics http://www.juliennes.com

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Updates

A nice site for gift browsing: Feedsack Fabrics doesn’t fit the description of vintage but is worth a mention for the meticulous reproduction of original mill and company logo feedsacks. Owner Diane Haines offers a varied line of fabric, clothing and bags which are just too hard to resist. http://www.iserve.net/~feedsack/feedsack.html

Traveling to or live in Canada? Quilters Garden carries old fabrics as well as traditional quilting fabrics and magazines and conducts classes. Catalog by mail only at this time. Located in Toronto, Ontario, it is part of the Canadian Quilters Ring. http://www.quiltersgarden.com

Next Month: Building a TextileReference Library

If you are interested in vintage fabrics and the textile industry,  email Joan. Your topic could be of interest to collectors whose hobbies or professions require knowledge and usage of old fabrics or their contemporary counterparts and your requests could be the beginning of an ongoing vintage column.

Joan Kiplinger is an antique doll costumer and vintage fabric addict who learned to sew on her grandmother's treadle and has been peddling fabrications ever since.