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Vintage Fabrics  - IN SEARCH OF WARP ENDS
By Joan Kiplinger
Join Joan's New Vintage Fabric Discussion List!


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February/March, 2001:
Page 1  Page 3 - Feedsack Gallery

Feedbags: From Rags to Riches
Page 2

Wisdom from the Roundtable

1. When did you get interested in collecting feedsacks? Do you sell? collect? buy?

. Paula – has been collecting for nine years and selling for one and a half years. Addiction started with hearing about a feedsack quilt during a charm exchange. Had no idea what this was or looked like, so inquired at an antique store and was lucky to get five feedsacks at $3 each. The asking and searching began and still goes on.

. Jane – began collecting in 1986. Actually, feedsacks found her while looking for old fabrics. Had no idea what they were but had to have them. Buys and sells on Ebay, by mail and at lectures where she exhibits.

. Sharon – has always been intrigued by huge variety available. Began selling antiques and some textiles about 15 years. Now sells feedsacks; notes that until three or four years ago average price of sack was $3.

. Judy -- Began collecting 12 years ago simply because they appealed to her. Husband is in the milling industry and brought her first sack from an Arkansas mill. Wasn’t a quilter then, wasn’t sure what to do with it so opened up bag, serged around edges and made two dishtowels. Still has towels but not to dry dishes any more. Hasn’t cut up any feedsacks since then. Has bought through Ebay which was a good learning experience.

. Betty --started buying six years ago at local auctions. Now buys and sells

2. What are your oldest, rarest and most unusual sacks?

. Paula – has three Gone with the Wind, each of different background colors; three WWII, 200 novelty and 200 solid color.

Gone with the Wind in 3 background colors, c 1950s. Blue was found in an antique mall seven years ago simply labeled vintage fabric and priced at $9. Tw yellows and another blue were an Ebay win at $13 for all! They were sold and paid for a red winner on Ebay.
                                   - Courtesy Paula Hammer

Disney's popular Davey Crockett and another western scene, c1950s.
                            - Courtesy Paula Hammer

. Jane – Walt Disney’s Cinderella, Alice in Wonderland, Davey Crockett, Donald Duck, Mickey Mouse and Goofy are among the oldest. Most unusual is a WWII sack with war symbols – Pearl Harbor, Iwo Jima, FDR, Hirohito, Hitler, Stalin, Flying Tigers, Bataan and more. Notes that men in particular look at it for the longest time; you can see them going down memory lane – see Kent Cloth photo in Origins section.

     

The ever-popular Disney prints feature Alice in Wonderland, Cinderella and Davey Crockett, late 40s-early 50s.
                               - Courtesy Jane Clark Stapel

. Sharon -- oldest homespun linen from 19th century Pennsylvania; made of rough, dark linen called tow and hand sewn. Bags generally measure about 40"by 20" wide. Rarest example is WWII Gone with Wind which she has had several times. Favorites of scarce ones are Buck Rogers space design and nursery rhyme sack which sold for $175. Another is a miniature sample-size Quaker Sugar bag ; got four of those at a closed general store auction.

  

Scarce prints from the late 1930s-early 40s feature Buck Rogers type scenes and favorite  nursery rhyme characters of frog a courting, BoPeep and Humpty Dumpty.
                                                - Courtesy Sharon Stark

. Judy – oldest dates to 1933-35 and bears the NRA blue eagle. Uncle Sam doll sack from Sea Island Sugar also dates to 1933.

Two versions of the National Recovery Act blue eagle symbol, 1933-35. Light blue eagle [top] with red insignia appear on Sterling Products salt bag. Dark blue NRA logo is from a Revere Refinery sugar bag which claims Purity is Guaranteed. Wouldn't that make a wonderful political slogan?
                                            - Courtesy of Judy White

3. Were sacks in other forms such as garments, linens, etc

. Paula – possibly several sacks were used as table cloths as they were hemmed on the raw edges

. Jane – dresses, baby clothing, luncheon cloths and napkins, curtains, night wear, bonnets. Also bought an award-winning collection from one of the National Cotton Council’s contests for ingenuity in using feedsacks to make a variety of clothing.

. Sharon -- towels, tablecloths, aprons, skirts, dresses and quilts.

4. How do use feedsacks—quilting, display, garments, other?

. Paula – sacks are arranged by category such as novelties, plains, etc. They are in two fabric cases similar to bookcases turned on their sides. Has completed four feedsack quilts plus three tops to be quilted.

A neatly stacked display of solid-color sacks is one way to categorize a collection.
                                                          - Courtesy of Paula Hammer

. Jane – mostly for exhibits and trunk show lectures presented to guilds, historical societies, various organizations. Even though a quilter, sharing history with others is prime hobby. Notes feedsacks are our heritage and an important part of our textile history. Displays some sacks in a frame of old barn wood made by son.

. Betty – uses sacks for making quilts

     

Provenance from the depression to treasure. Quilts made by Elna Faye Johnson Wilson as a teenager in 1930 with pre-1930 fabrics for her hope chest. She lived on a farm in Idaho and was  "poorer than church mice." Her baby crib was a horse collar padded with blankets. She remarked there was no money to buy fabric so quilts were made from feedsack and old clothes. They are as new as the day they were made because they were never used! Pictured are sections from yoyo, lady, scotty and fan quilts.
                    - Courtesy of Betty Wilson, Elna's loving daughter in law

5. What do you look for in buying? what to avoid? and other words of wisdom

. Paula – has learned to be very selective; doesn’t buy linen-type feedsacks because they are too coarse and porous for quilts. Looks for visible stitching holes and holds them to light to see if there are any indications of stitching. Sets a limit on spending, exceeding it only if sack is rare.

Advises to read labels carefully. still makes sacks for special orders,. Learned this experience when purchasing several sacks advertised as having original label and from 1950s – early 60s. However, labels from Shawnee Milling Co. in Oklahoma contained zip and UPC codes. As zips were introduced around 1963 and UPC about1973, doubts were raised about authenticity and true age of sacks. Contacted Shawnee which assured her they were indeed genuine although made at a later date than advertised and that company still made bags for special orders.

. Jane – bags should be in pristine condition, no stains, holes, frays, tears. The more flaws, the less it’s worth. Inspect both sides; hold up to light to check for spots, dots and discoloration. Sometimes these conditions will originate in fiber itself which works its way to surface.

It is important if you are a seller to know that feedsack is genuine; you do an injustice to others by guessing. As an example, some persons have entered competitions only to learn their sacks are either fakes or don’t qualify as a sack.

 

Example of recycling a damaged feedsack. This sack of four different designs, was salvaged by cutting apart designs. Two are shown here. Sack in entirety must have been a striking sight, judging from the colorful arrangement.
                                                - Courtesy of Jane Clark Stapel

. Sharon –look for holes from stitching; has handled so many sacks that can tell by touch if real thing. Feedsacks are popular in Japan! Seldom see this mentioned. There is a feedsack love web ring in that country and many dealers in feedsacks and vintage American fabrics are popular with Japanese who make quilts and other patchwork items such as rag dolls or anything kawaii * [Japanese for cute].

On homespun sacks: coarse linen sacks are probably precursor of the feedsack we know today. They are made from homespun linen often woven about 41" wide. Most desired by primitive collectors are the crudest, coarsest, uncleaned ones that have a sort of dirty brown color, often with little pieces of flax straw woven in. Definitely not for making towels! Linen was handstitched into sacks with ties of twill tape applied so those are not mass produced. Only ones seen printed were those where owner used stencil or wood block. Some have initials cross stitched in indigo or turkey red thread.

 

A real oldie -- homespun linen grain sack from third quarter 19th century. Measures  36" D x 20" W.  Bags  like this were common in eastern Pennsylvania and can be found in widths up to 41" W. Closeup reveals blue cross-stitched initials and number plus a good view of texture of weave.
                                                    - Courtesy of Sharon Stark

. Judy -- try to buy sacks that have actually held contents. If needle holes are at top of sack, it is fairly obvious it held something. Sometimes small bits of grain and feed will remain. Values a booklet published by National Cotton Council of America in the 1940s which tells how to care for and use feedsacks.

Front and back covers of a WWII booklet issued by the National Cotton Council of America which sums up the homefront effort to conserve -- A Yard Saved Is a Yard Gained for Victory.
                 - Courtesy of Judy White

Some of the advice includes saving bag string to be used in sewing [Judy has two feedsack quilts where the string has been use in piecing] and for crochet projects.. Patterns and measurements are given for clothing and home goods; a child’s pinafore required three 30x34 bags. Patterns could be ordered from Famous Features Syndicate in New York.

Booklet provides instructions to remove printing; calls for soaking uncut bag overnight in heavy soap suds. Next day wash thoroughly in warm suds, gently rubbing parts covered by ink. To remove any last traces, boil in soap suds for 10 minutes.

Notes this still poses a problem for those who want to wash bags but retain printing and to keep ink from bleeding. [Judy has successfully washed white flour sacks with blue printing remaining intact.] Kerosene was also used as a remover on some of the older bags. Other booklet advice stated tinting could be done with a reliable dye but bag must be bleached in sun and wet thoroughly before tinting.

 

Washing instructions for removing printing were printed on some bags such as this 100-lb. Revere Sugar Refinery bag from Boston, c1930s-40s. Closeup of instructions states "Soak in cold water and soap overnight and wash with warm water in morning."
                    - Courtesy of Judy White

. Betty --always buy sacks in the best condition. If they have large rust areas or mildew don’t buy them.. If you purchase feedsacks with advertising on it, don’t wash it. Inks are water soluble and will bleed and run and break your heart. This is why you buy best quality and condition. Calico flour sacks can be washed without damage to printed designs. The oldest are made of a coarser and loosely woven cloth. If you find some cloth but are not sure if genuine, look on seam edge to see if there are telltale holes left by removal of big stitches.

6. Advice to beginners

. Paula – buy only sacks that you like, not just how many you can find. Buy quilting magazines which have articles on feedsacks and good reference books.

. Jane – buy good reference books. If buying, ask seller or someone you know who can give you correct advice; bring samples when shopping around so you can compare textures.

. Sharon – have a focus; field too large to just collect anything and everything. Learn from your collection so you can recognize patterns popular at different times, color palettes, etc.

  Two examples of specialty collecting: Patriostism ran high with WWII bags such as this 1940s V for Victory and Morse Code print from Sharon Stark's collection. Animals are another favorite topic, especially when they are as appealing as these Easter bunnies from the collection of Paul Hammer.

. Betty -- trade your stash with friends. Internet fabric exchanges and quilt groups are fun and educational.

Lastly -- you can generally tell feedsack fabric by its somewhat loose weave, homespun look. Surprisingly the more bags are washed the softer fabric becomes. Last year I was given a 1940s - early 50s sack which was a border print for a pillowcase. I had absolutely no idea that it was a feedsack. After washing it to remove odor and dirt, I couldn’t believe how buttery soft it became. And to tell the truth, I’d prefer to have all my pillowcases of this fabric rather than all the ritzy 300- count percales.

My first and only feedsack made into a pillowcase which sadly will never
see action, despite buttery smooth fabric and 1940s nostalgic colors to
assure a good night's slumber.

Thanks to those who participated in this column. Their patience with this newcomer is appreciated. See the feedsack display link for more fabulous sacks from their collections.

Environmental note: Collector Pat Gallaway makes an interesting observation about synthetic sacks which arrived on the market around the late 1960s-early 70s. Made of poly or cotton/poly they were touted as strong, nearly indestructible, no rotting, no weakening of fiber. No one foresaw the destructive consequences that migration of fibers would be a costly and deadly problem until bits and pieces of fiber began showing up in woolraisers’ sheep pens. Loose fibers from the open feed bags placed in pens became mixed with the feed and ingested by sheep; their greasy wool acted as a magnet in attracting and imbedding fibers in their fleece.

Fibers would remain in wool after extensive washings and it was nearly impossible to detect foreign flecks at that manufacturing stage. It was after the weaving and dying process that defects showed up. Synthetic fibers did not take the dye. Whole runs of fabric were ruined. Downtime and fabric loss were very costly to mills. More tragically, digested fibers would saw through sheep intestines causing death. Although most farmers have reverted to natural fibers or other safe containers, poly bags are still marketed.

Recommended References

Soft Covers for Hard Times by Merikay Waldvogel, 1990, Rutledge Hill Press
-- Fabulous Feedsack Quilts , 1999, published by editors of Traditional Quiltworks Magazine [Chitra]
Textile Bags, Identification & Value Guide by Anna Lue Cook, 1990, Books Americana
-- Periodicals and magazines featuring feedsacks

Ed Note: As some of these books are out of print, a search on http://www.addall.com will provide bookstores having these and related books in stock and price comparisons. Use both the current and out-of-print menus to search.

Where to buy feedsacks

Dealers

. Jane Clark Stapel http://members.aol.com/baglady111 or contact baglady111@aol.com has large and varied stock; buys and sells; enrollment in her Feedsack Club; booklet available on Is It A Feedsack? which she wrote; also has copies of the Ann Lue Cook book for sale.

. Sharon Starkhttp://www.rickrack.com or contact sstark@nni.com Sharon’s Antiques Vintage Fabrics; has largest feedsacks selection on internet and specializes in other vintage fabrics.

. Betty Wilson http://www.oldhankies.com or contact betty@oldhankies.com has special section for feedsacks plus other vintage items for quilters, collectors and crafters.

Other Sources

. Paula and Judy recommend – Flea markets, antique shops, garage sales and internet sites such as Ebay http://www.ebay.com quilting discussion groups such as those on http://www.quiltropolis.com and the feedsack fanatic list at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/feedsackfanatics or feedsackfanatics-subscribe@onelist.com

********

Updates:

Another shopping place vintage fabrics dealer Nan Jaeger of Gladstone OR finally has her web site up and running. A wonderful selection you don’t want to miss at Revival Fabrics, 1920s-70s. http://www.revivalfabrics.com  

 

Next -- Profiles in Collecting: a look at how we perceive vintage fabric

Coming Soon: Barkcloth and Building a Reference Library

 

The arbitrary cut-off date for this Vintage Fabric column is 1960. To stay within the scope of this timeframe, reference materials published up to that date are the prime source of information to more accurately capture actual thoughts of the time.

If you are interested in vintage fabrics and textile production, email Joan@fabrics.net . Your topic or query could be of interest to collectors and professionals whose hobbies or research require knowledge and use of old fabrics and their contemporary counterparts.

Joan Kiplinger is an antique doll costumer and vintage fabric addict who learned to sew on her grandmother's treadle and has been peddling fabrications ever since.

 


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