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Columns

Vintage Fabrics
  November 20 - A Celebration of Joan Kiplinger 1933 - 2009
  February 20 - Is There a Silver Moon in Your Quilt?
  January 20 - Part III: Any Powder Puffs or DayLee in Your Quilts?
  December 20 - PART II: Any E&W Prints in Your Quilt?
  November 20 - PART I: Any Rondo Prints in Your Quilt?
  May 20 - Wrights - Memories of an American Institution
  May 20 - Underground Railroad Quilt Code
  October 20 - Up Close and Personal with Vintage Aprons
  November 20 - Colorful Vintage Tablecloths and Towels
  September 20 - The Legacy of Warren Featherbone
  May 20 - Some Costumes for Elderly Ladies
  March 20 - And That's a Wrap - Oh to be in my ki-moni-yo
  February 20 - Life Was a Breeze with Fans
  January 20 - Please Don't Ridicule My Reticule!
  April 20 - More Mill Connections
  February 20 - One Woman's Failed Struggle to Quit the Fabric Habit
  January 20 - The Indian Head Connection 3
  October 20 - The Indian Head Connection 2
  September 20 - The Indian Head Connection 1
  August 20 - Recycling Vintage Fabrics
  July 20 - Sanforized: Fabric's Best Friend
  June 20 - History of the Printed Tablecloth
  May 20 - Decorative Relief Carving in Wooden Spools
  April 20 - Vintage Hankies - More Than Sneeze Catchers
  March 20 - Indian Head Remembered - Revisiting An American Institution
  February 20 - Doll Couture Vintage Style
  January 20 - Meet the Azlons from A to Z: Regenerated & Rejuvenated
  December 20 - Osnaburg the Great Part 2 Home Beautiful with Cretonne, Chintz, Barkcloth & Crash
  November 20 - Osnaburg the Great Part I -- Feedsacks on Our Backs
  October 20 - WWII Fashions Part 2 --All Dolled up
  September 20 - Cotton Dyeing in the 18th & 19th Century
  August 20 - Hooked on Buttons
  July 20 - Pillow Talk
  June 20 - WWII Fashions
  May 20 - A Going-Away Dress
  April 20 - Harriet Quimby
  January 20 - Capes
  December 20 - Umbrellas
  November 20 - Weaveprints
  October 20 - Grenadine
  September 20 - Bias Tape
  August 20 - Dolls
  July 20 - Thread Chart
  June 20 - Vintage Costuming
  April 20 - Building A Textile Reference Library
  March 20 - Profile of Collector
  February 20 - Feedbags
  January 20 - Cambric
  December 20 - Gizmos
  November 20 - Trims
  October 20 - Stores 1920-59
  September 20 - 1880-1919
  August 20 - Sweatshops
  July 20 - Label Scandal
  June 20 - Bias Tape
  Extra: Bias Tape Chart
  May 20 - Miracle Fibers
  April 20, 2000
  March 20, 2000
  February 20, 2000
  January 20, 2000
  December 20, 1999

 

 

fabrics.net

Vintage Fabrics  - IN SEARCH OF WARP ENDS
By Joan Kiplinger
Join Joan's New Vintage Fabric Discussion List!


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January/February, 2002

Oh, Those Huggable, Cape-able Shoulders

Carmen's bullfighter lover made the cape popular. Wrong.
Sherlock Holmes? Guess again.
Caesar? Nope.
Little Red Riding Hood? Sorry.
Sir Walter Raleigh? You're way off base.

The cape was born of necessity to protect man and his mate from the cold and rain and to use as a cover when sleeping.

Capes or drapery have existed as long as the stars and moon. They make their appearance throughout history as Egyptian apron coats; Greek chlamys, chiton and himations; Roman togas and mantles; African burnouses; Gothic palliums, mediaeval cloaks and bliauds; 17th century mantaux and flying gowns; 18th century shawls, stoles and pelisses; 19th century tippets, boas, capelets, redingotes, mantalets, canezous, Invernesses, carricks and paletots; 20th -21st century panchos, wraps and cocoons.

Well, it certainly keeps me warm but there's got to be a better way!
They came in all materials, lengths and styles; unadorned, furred and bejeweled. They hid secret documents, lovers' trysting notes, stolen chickens. In a more romantic vein they were indispensable groundcovers for picnics and flashy backdrops for Errol Flynn's swordplay.

At varying points in history the type of cape you wore was regulated by law according to your position in society. Hoods were added in Roman England as a sign of humility; the Gothic rich only could have fasteners of brooches. Around the 17th century capes began to wane as a primary outer covering as man sought sleeved garments for more adequate protection against the weather. Capes became more a decorative accessory.

It was WW I with its simple tailored-line dictates and the Chanel sweater of the 1920s which eclipsed the cape. Most likely, though, the cape will never loose its appeal. Somehow it will find a way to hang on in fashionable style.

Shown here are capes through the ages plus a basic circular cape pattern to dress your special doll from an 1886 Delineator.

Cape photo gallery. Sources: The Mode in Costume, Costumes and Styles, Sears 1933 catalog.
Egypt: king in long apron and coat Ancient Greece: a man of action in chlamys and broad-brimmed hat. Ancient Rome: regal lady in under tunic with stolla palla North Europe 1st century AD: Briton in plaid woolen tunic with woolen mantle and gold jewelry Byzantine: princess in white tunic, green mantle lined with purple; cerise boots; gold and jeweled embroidery
Italian medieval 13th century: royalty in brocaded robe with purple mantle, embroidery and jewels France 15th century: a noble, manly pose in brocaded gold cloak, lined and edged with fur over white shirt and red tights Spain 16th century: matron in gold cloth brocaded gown and white headdress under black mantle Spain mid-16th century: gay blade in black with white tulle, taffeta lined cape; silk hat with rose feather; embroidered doublet England mid-16th century: a noblewoman in cloth mantle with fur collar and jeweled hood over black jewel velvet gown
France 1789, the hedgehog look: pale blue satin pelisse with mink and mink muff over violet gown with violet silk train and cerise & violet ribboned hair 1884: ermine cape stole and muff over black silk gown with green velvet bonnet/grey feather 1850s: milady swathed in burnous of white and green stripes with green velvet tassel and bonnet over green silk gown. England 1880s: a dapper gent in a smashing Inverness coat cape of plaid wool with woolen cap and cloth-top shoes England 1883: another milady in brown plush pelisse trimmed in beaver with brown velvet hat with red and yellow flowers and grey plumes.
1895: what the ladies strolled in --black taffeta summer cape with accordion pleated frills, white lawn collar and lace jabot over pleated light cloth dress 1909: strutting her stuff in evening wrap of mauve velvet with black velvet collar, gold trim over black velvet gown with paradise in hair. 1925: still more strutting -- another enveloping cape, all fur, to show off at the theatre. 1933: the capelet frock to be made of silk 1947 France haute couture: Grès designed this circular cape made of grey flannel

1956: Dior's cocoon silhouette cape of featherweight blue and white tweed, self-tie collar, slots for sleeves
12" doll's cape pattern from an 1886 Delineator.
Four capes in 2 styles from one pattern by using any combination shown for one, two or three layer capes, collar or collarless. Cut two on fold for each layer used. Cape can be squared or rounded. ¼" seam allowance. Pattern shown actual size for 12" doll; can easily be reduced or enlarged.

Any fabric is suitable including eyelets for summer dresses. Many movies featured these capes as theater or opera wear in black velvet lined with brilliant green silk and ribbon or dark soft green velvet lined with bright rose- does that bring back any memories?

The arbitrary cut-off date for this Vintage Fabric column is 1960. To stay within the scope of this timeframe, reference materials published up to that date are the prime source of information to more accurately capture actual thoughts of the time.

Joan Kiplinger is an antique doll costumer and vintage fabric addict who learned to sew on her grandmother's treadle and has been peddling fabrications ever since.


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