This hunt for and knowledge of vintage cottons
column was inspired by several queries to fabric.net about Indian Head and a nudge
from Judith.
First, the revival of cotton, saving us all from the polyester blahs, is due in large
part to quilters demanding premium muslin and the southern heirloom ladies for insisting
on fine swiss.
However, between those two extremes is the loss of wonderful now-obsolete yard goods.
Older sewers know the joy of sewing with such cottons and miss their existence; younger
ones will never know the infinite variety no longer within their reach except through
second-hand purchase.
Two and possibly three of these lost fabrics deserve special attention. Their
disappearance has us puzzled because there are still practical uses for them and they
would be a welcome sight if they were to reappear.
Indian Head -- in answer to questions for Andy about this fabric, the communications
staff at Textron Inc. provided this information: the Indian Head brand label has been
known since the 1820s, the cloth manufactured by Nashua Mfg. Co. in New Hampshire.
Textron, having just changed its name from Atlantic Rayon Corp and seeking
diversification, bought the firm in 1945 to meet the growing demand for postwar fabrics.
In the early 50s, Textron sold the Indian Head operations and a new company, Indian Head
Inc., was formed. The fabric was highly regarded and a popular seller. For full and complete Indian Head information see IndianHead Remembered
Elizabeth Dyer, Textile Fabrics, 1923, described the fabric as a heavy cotton muslin
with more yarns and a smoother finish than many muslins; sturdy, substantial, warm,
inexpensive. Used for white skirts, petticoats, girls dresses and middies, boys' suits,
men's nightshirts, aprons, luncheon sets and table covers. Grace Denny, Fabrics, 1953,
reports fabric was available in 36" and 44" widths for white; 36", colored.
Fairchild's Dictionary of Textiles, 1996, lists fabric as a well-known cotton crash first
woven by Nashua in 1831.
My memories of this serviceable fabric are from the mid-40s to 1960. I used it for
summer casual dress and sportswear, including countless maternity shorts. I do not recall
seeing it after that time nor have I yet found any source stating its demise. It may be in
a later Denny book which always features a glossary on the latest obsolete fabrics. If any
of you know when it was discontinued, let Judith know.
Cambric -- I wish I had the pleasure of sewing more with this fabric when I started to
sew in 1946. However, white cotton cambric went out of fashion in that year according to
Denny. I have, however, several vintage pieces, both in linen [it's original manufacture]
and in cotton and a blend of both and in varying degrees of fineness and texture. This is
a fabric which handles superbly, creases nicely, especially when finger pressing, and
gives no trouble. It has been around for centuries and can be identified by its linen-like
slub weave; cotton when washed will lay flatter and not horribly wrinkle like linen.
Its uses ranged from blouses, underclothes, children's and infants' garments,
underlinings and linings, handkerchiefs, bedding and much more. Considered a white yard
good, it was available during the 20s and 30s in colored prints for dressmaking by Worth
Cambric. However, I wonder if this was indeed a true cambric. Cambric has such a smooth,
lustrous surface that its name was also given to a fabric finish. The Sears 1933 catalog
lists its finest percales as having a cambric finish and collectively called its best
percales cambrics. Whoever said the textile industry was easy to categorize?
I understand a fine linen cambric is available today but no sources were available from
my informant. If you can contribute to this fabric's history, tell Judith and perhaps
there can be a column devoted solely to cambric.
Kettlecloth -- this is a fine homespun, one of the best home decor fabrics ever. I
discovered it in the 70s and lost it in the mid-80s.It was marvelous for drapes,
bedskirts, quilting and other household uses; even for children's clothes. Like cambric it
was a joy to sew on and behaved beautifully. During the early 80s it was also available as
a blend. Its longevity is incredible -- all my bedroom decor mentioned above is still in
action from the mid-70s and shows no signs of wear. Many persons remember this fabric but
like myself do not know its origins or if it's still available. I have not seen any at
fabric chain stores nor advertised in sewing magazines. Here's another material for
research and your input.
In Search of I -- two other brands readers asked about were Cloth of Gold and Quadriga
Cloth. I could find no references in my books to Cloth of Gold but I do have some in my
collection. It is nainsnook from 1941. Whether the brand is limited only to this fabric or
includes other plain weaves is a subject for research. Quadriga Cloth, according to
Fairchild's, is a trademark for an obsolete printed cotton with a silky, easy- to-sew
finish. There's a photo in one of my fabric books showing a throng of bargain hunters at
Macy's in the early 40s crowded around three sales tables of this fabric. Another fabric
which needs researching.
In Search of II -- As an adventure in tracking down vintage fabric books, let http://www.addall.com do the work for you. This web site
searches 41 book stores to give you sources and best price. Also, a 10x non-distorting linen tester [thread counter, thread pick] is available for under $10.00 from Indigo® Instruments. It only measures 1/2" but
double the thread count to get a 1" count. This handy gadget makes your fabric pop.
In Search of III -- an excellent source of information is the American Textile
Manufacturers Institute, http://www.atmi.org which
provides lists of textile companies and their products, textile schools, online product
directory which lists fabrics, yarns and threads and links to companies manufacturing them
plus educational material to order.
