Wisdom From the Professionals A collection of Articles

FABRIC - SAVE, REPAIR, REMODEL OR LET IT GO . . .
By Judith M. Brooks, http://www.anjooriansilks.com

Accompanying this article are before and after pictures of three restored dresses that clearly reflect what can be done with garments that supposedly have outlived their usefulness.

Today, fabric is everywhere. There is an unlimited supply of screen prints, colors and textures in both natural and synthetic fibers. If you can think it you probably can find a fabric to fit just about every need. Ours is a fluid society that looks to replace instead of repair, throw away instead of save and our imaginations have been blunted from so many choices that remaking something very often isn't even a thought.

Although there are many fabrics that would qualify for "throw-away" status, there are many that would serve us better if we knew how to take care of them.

Unknown territory, such as sewing with silk, cutting beaded fabrics, dyeing an existing garment, repairing a loved piece of clothing fill most people with dread and unless help is immediately available, a decision is very often made to "throw" the piece away.

This article is written for the person who has an attachment to an existing garment, furnishing or fabric that in its present state needs help of some kind.

There are always specific questions asked when a fabric/garment is being considered for salvage: can I change the color? can I wash it? can I get the stains - discolorations out? can I recut it for something different and if so, how?

TO SAVE OR NOT TO SAVE . . .

How much did it cost and what is the fiber content? These two questions begin the evaluation as to whether or not it's worth pursuing. Generally an attempt to modify an inexpensive item is not cost or time-effective. Unless the fabric is made of a strong fiber with inherently good qualities the end result will be disappointing. For instance, although rayon is a natural fiber that feels wonderful to wear, it has a high shrinkage rate and it is a weak fiber which would translate to a short-term life for this garment.

Another question to ask -- what was it's original purpose? If it belonged to a loved one it may have a sentimental value and that alone might be sufficient reason to consider an overhaul. The last question I would have is how badly is it damaged and how long has it been that way?

Stains/discolorations . . . some can be corrected. Both natural and synthetic fibers will often respond to an attempt to correct these problems. Generally, the older the fabric, the poorer the end result.

TO REPAIR OR NOT TO REPAIR . . .

If you look in your closet you'll find that 2/3's of what is there is not worn. The pieces that feel comfortable and those that make you feel good about yourself are what you repeatedly wear. Clothing is a window to our psyche and color reflects our current state of mind and when that changes so does our desire for that color. What you will find yourself wanting to save will be those pieces that accomplish those objectives. Coupled with cost and fiber content, this will lay the groundwork for a successful conclusion.

TO REMODEL OR NOT TO REMODEL . . .

To effectively remodel anything you have to be able to create an alternative. For example, you have slipcovers that have burn holes in them -- if you make the gathered skirt box pleats, then you create fabric to repair the burn holes; if you have a wedding dress with sleeves you can recut them and reduce the amount of fabric for the bodice and so on. Very often new fabric can be blended with the old.

Dyeing . . . natural fibers only. The dyes used for synthetics are not readily useable by an amateur and are also hazardous to the environment. Rit dye, which is an industrial dye, is not color or lightfast and is a temporary solution at best. Dyes used for natural fibers can be used to remodel a good garment to give it another life. Any stains or discolorations though, will not disappear -- they will still be there after dyeing.

Washing/cleaning . . . to modify a piece of fabric you have to be able to wash it. The biggest problem is the shrinkage and the loss of existing dye color which varies from fiber to fiber. Both natural and synthetic fibers can be washed and returned to a better condition with varying degrees of success.

RESTORED DRESSES . . .

The pink dress is a polyester satin, circa 1970, found in a Goodwill store and remodeled for a school play of the "Wizard of Oz". An overlay of nylon netting studded with tiny crystals was added, the fabric washed and the bodice/sleeves -- reworked.

The wedding dress with the long lace sleeves is an acetate satin with chantilly lace, circa 1940. this dress was worn by the grandmother, mother and granddaughter. The acetate was brought back to it's original color but it had stains on the outside that couldn't be removed so the fabric was reversed instead. The lace was damaged so replacement lace was used and the original design was recreated. When the bride walked down the aisle and the grandmother realized that it was her dress her granddaughter was wearing, she cried from happiness.

The sleeveless wedding dress is an acetate satin with alencon lace, circa 1960. The fabric and lace were restored to their original color as well as finding the same lace new. Old/new lace was used to trim the veil and added to the bottom/top of the dress. The bodice was recut from the sleeves and the bow extensions were opened up and added to the back to make a brush train. A silk satin organza overlay was added to the back as well. Nobody could believe it was the same dress. After the wedding the bride didn't want to bring her dress to a drycleaner, so we washed this dress in the bathtub and hung it out dripping wet to dry. It smelled of clean clothes. What an experience for her and her mother.

In each of the above instances, in good faith, they had been told by seamstresses and drycleaners that nothing could be done for these dresses. Obviously, options were available. Getting the right information makes all the difference.

Fabrics.net provides a valuable source of fabrics as well as pertinent information on existing garments. We support this website wholeheartedly as a wonderful arena of answers.

Anjoorian Silk's history . . .

We have been involved for the past 20 years with every phase of garment or home furnishing production. It encompasses pattern-making, tailoring, dressmaking, alterations and dyeing silks -- along with restored pageant and wedding dresses in polyester, acetate and silk. There isn't a fabric that we haven't manipulated in some way for some useage and as a result, have practical, hands-on knowledge that can be applied to explain real choices to those that want to go down this path.

We ceased sewing in 1996 and beginning 1997 we went online with our website specializing in the silk dyeing. We are a custom silk dye studio that specializes in small quantity dyeing for our customers and we source for silks of unusual quality and beauty for all types of useage. We are committed to assisting anyone who needs information on maintaining fabrics, silk or otherwise. Please feel free to contact us through FABRICS.NET or directly for indepth information on any questions you may have about dyeing, cleaning/restoring existing garments.

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