Performing the batik technique can be done in a factory for mass production, or
in smaller quantities per yard; this is done by hand, which is the traditional way to
batik print. The factory method was put in place c.1850 in order to compete with a
burgeoning European fashion market. This method uses a metal stamp, called a
"cap," to apply the hot wax; the stamp is heated, dipped in the hot wax, and the
surface of the cap is then pressed on to the cloth. The traditional method, done by hand,
utilizes a wooden, pen-like "canting" filled with the hot, liquid wax that is
drawn on to the fabric’s surface.
The next steps are the same regardless of the beginning method. The newly waxed
cloth must be laid out on a table to be painted. Colors are brushed between the wax lines
to complete the designs. Then the colored areas are re-waxed in black so the background
dyes do not penetrate the new pattern.
Next, the cloth is dyed. It is washed in or pulled through a chemical agent that
helps the dye to bond to the cloth. After the excess bonding agent drips off, the cloth is
pulled through the dye to produce the illustrious color. Lastly, the cloth is boiled.
Stirring the cloth in boiling vats allows the excess wax to be scooped off using
perforated ladles. After the excess wax is removed, the brilliance in design and color are
revealed, and a finished batik print is ready for use.
The fashion and upholstery industries are utilizing batik patterns now more than
ever. They’re popping up all over the runways, shopping centers, and furniture
showrooms. The urban fashion industry is embracing the tradition by manufacturing sarongs,
scarves, dresses, jackets, and accessories for the ready-to-wear market. This facet of the
industry focuses on the West African, Middle Eastern, and Native American batik tradition.
These cultures influenced mainstream batik printing, as well as inventing new styles.
The Middle Eastern population often favored the patterns that were based on the
patola designs from India, as well as designs that featured the color green. Historically,
green was a sacred color in the Muslim faith. The introduction of Islam to this area also
affected batik printing in that the Islamic faith forbade the depiction of life-like
pictures; this prompted the use of stylized patterns without representation of human or
animal forms. They generally printed their batik designs on cotton, voile, or silk, much
like the traditional batik printing is done.
West African and Native American batik prints often depict the activities of
people interacting in daily life. The patterns show people grinding corn, carrying water
or firewood, braiding hair, dancing in ceremonies, praying for rain, or showing
caricatures of emotions. Many of their batik patterns are printed on Kente cloth or
mudcloth, cotton, or voile. These cultures brought the use of new fabrics to the forefront
of the batik revolution.
The Middle Eastern, West African, and Native American cultures popularized these
traditional patterns through clothing beginning in the late 1960’s. The upholstery
and furnishings industry became familiar with the batik tradition much earlier, yet
prominence did not come until the early 1950’s; its popularity has yet to decrease.
Several different cultures have influenced the patterns and designs of this
facet of the industry.
The Chinese contributed to the batik design are most evident in the addition of
more flower and bird motifs, border patterns, and incorporating the use of pinks, yellows,
and blues. Dutch and Eurasian women have favored the use of European floral bouquets,
birds, bees, trees and butterflies in their patterns, a trend that is one of the most
popular in use today. All three cultures influenced the design and color combinations so
heavily, that batik is often associated with their influential characteristics.
Batik prints are so common in our society today, that it’s hard to imagine
a life without their beauty. Batik prints are in our art, on our loveseats, and in our
wardrobe. They’re hanging over our bay windows, and adorning our walls with their
elegance. Batik printing, patterns and designs have enriched many facets of an artistic
heritage that encompasses many regions of the world.
A tradition that started on a small island 2,000 years ago has evolved into a
world-renowned practice. Fashions and furnishings helped bring the beauty of this
tradition to world wide prominence. Batik apparel was formerly the clothing of
aristocracy; batik is now the art of the world.
Bibliography
- Harris, Jennifer. Textiles 5,000 Years: An International History and
Illustrated Survey; Harry N. Abrams, Inc., Publishers. Pp. 161-165.
- www.ujamaatravel.com/artwork/africa/pschina
