Whether you are in the deep south of the United States or the deep south of
France, chances are most of the popular styles of wedding gowns will have some type of
lace incorporated into the design. Lace, to varying degrees, is a mainstay in bridal
fashions throughout most of the world.
Hand made lace is produced through a highly skilled and time-consuming process.
The majority of lace makers is and have always been women. Intricate fine pieces of lace
could take a whole day to produce only a few centimeters. Lace is created by looping and
twisting threads using a set of bobbins or a needle. All true lace is done this way. True
hand made lace is also constructed separate from any woven fabric.
True lace appears to have first been made in the late fifteenth or early
sixteenth century. The finest laces were made in Italy, France and Belgium. Various
qualities of lace were also produced in several parts of Europe, China, India, the
Philippines, and South and Central America.
Laces were typically made from flax, silk, metal wrapped silk and some cotton
and wool. However, flax (linen) thread made in Belgium was the fiber of choice.
Types of Lace
Alençon lace has a fine net ground and a raised outer edge (cordonnet). The
majority of this type of lace is made by machine today. It commonly used as trimming for
wedding gowns.
Chantilly lace is a form of bobbin lace. It was originally made in the town of
Chantilly, France. It was very popular during the 17th century. It is
characterized by fine a net ground and delicate flowers, scrolls and branches. The pattern
is commonly outlined with heavy silk thread. This lace is expensive ($95.00 per yard or
more) and is commonly used in wedding gowns.
Battenberg lace , also known as Renaissance lace, and is created by using loops
of woven tape secured together by yarn brides to form patterns. Producing Battenburg lace
was a popular hobby in the United States in the early 1900’s. It is also now produced
by machine and commonly used for tablecloths and in bridal gowns.
Venetian Lace is made in Venice, Italy. It is a heavy lace with floral, sprays,
foliage or geometrical designs. In the 17th century this lace was considered
more valuable and held in higher esteem than jewels. Women of this era pinned up their
skirts on the sides so the various layers of their lace petticoats would be visible. This
lace adorned kings as they were crowned and the garments of the wealthy were abundantly
covered with it. This lace is still used today, especially in wedding gowns.
Machine made lace
Machines were developed in the early 1800’s to produce lace. John Leavers developed a
machine in 1813 that produced patterns and backgrounds at the same time. The Leavers
machine introduced the production of intricate lace patterns similar to those created by
hand. Lace made on the Leaver’s machine is called Leavers Lace. These laces are
usually expensive.
Raschel lace is made on a Raschel warp knitting machine. This type of machine
can produce laces similar to those made on the Leavers machine but at higher speeds and at
less expense. Much of the manufactured lace on the market today is made on Raschel
knitting machines. Laces that are intricate, light and delicate are made inexpensively and
quickly on these machines. Mass produced wedding gowns will contain lace that is produced
by machines. Designer wedding gowns will more likely contain portions of lace that are
hand made.
Princess Lace
This type of lace is used mainly for wedding veils and other ceremonial occasions. The net
is produced by machine and the flowers are applied with a needle by hand.
The current trend in wedding gowns is focusing more on detail. Plain simple
designs have been popular in recent years. The focus is now shifting to adding a small
amount of detail. This detail typically involves some type of lace appliqué. There is
also a trend towards historical gowns. The 18th century gowns (Martha
Washington type) are popular today. These gowns include more lace than some of the gowns
from other historical periods.
From traditional satin gowns to the not so traditional leather or vinyl gothic
gowns, lace is typically a necessary component of the gown and/or the headpiece worn with
the gown. There are many types of lace to choose from for wedding gowns. Lace can be added
to virtually any part of the gown to create a more sophisticated elegant gown. Many
fashions are just cyclic fads but lace, in all of its beauty and elegance is a constant
component of wedding attire.
Sources
- Harris, Jennifer. Textiles 5,000 Years: An International History and
Illustrated Survey; Harry N. Abrams, Inc., Publishers.
- Kadolph, Sara and Langford, Anna. Textiles, 8th Edition, Prentice-Hall
Publishing Company, Upper Saddle River, NJ.
- Humphries, Mary. Fabric Handbook Reference, 2nd Edition, Don Mills,
Ontario, Canada, 1992
- Wingate, Isabel. Fairchild’s Dictionary of Textiles, 6th Edition,
Fairchild Books a division of Fairchild Publications, New York, New York.
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